Iran is one of the world’s oldest civilizations; unfortunately, the Ayatollah won’t approve my visa, so I email President Ahmadinejad instead. Surprise! Before I can say Shah’s your uncle I am hurtling farther east than ever before into the Valley of the Assassins, the ruins of the great fire temple of Takht-e Soleyman, the Achaemid palace of Persepolis and the Shah’s crown jewels—just a few of the delights I experience behind the Peacock Curtain, before receiving an unexpected invitation to sing Christmas carols at the British embassy in Tehran.
