University behind me, I am drawn back once more to the land of The Thousand and One Nights, and retrace the footsteps of my great-grandfather who fought the Mahdist State at the Battle of Omdurman. Unfortunately, Sudan holds up my paperwork, so instead of following my map to Khartoum I climb Mount Sinai, and then make an unscheduled detour into Israel (in the middle of the Second Intifada).
